Sept. 3, 2023
Do you enjoy shifting your perspectives?
Consider how the stories reported by modern “news” outlets, miss so many key facts & key details, that they often don’t even come close to reality.
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As we age, we slowly become our stories …
Some are amusing, others full of striking details, yet others form the foundations of who we are – molded by memorable times with dear friends.
One of those times was just highlighted this past Saturday, by AMLO’s ribbon-cutting ceremony to (finally!) inaugurate the opening of “Chichen Viejo”.
The Chichen Viejo complex holds special significance for me, because it marked the last trip Sidney Hollander (‘Calman’ = INAH’s top Maya Calendar expert for 25 yrs) & I took with Dr. Peter Schmidt … aka the grand old man ~ Chief Archeologist~ of Chichen Itza … and Regional INAH Director.
As possibly his last official trip to Chichen Itza, Peter (Herr Profesor Doktor Schmid – INAH’s Regional Director) invited Sid & I to drive him out to see his last INAH project … the completion of restoring the modest arch at the entrance of the real “Chichen Viejo” complex, 6 years ago in 2017.
In the longer view, Site Director, Dr. Schmid initiated what INAH calls “an unprecedented intervention” into restorations of the Chichen Viejo complex during the 1990’s … finally culminating in completion of his efforts with the 2017 restoration of the entry-way arch.
Curiously, with the completion of the arch, the entire “Chichen Viejo” complex of structures, altars, labyrinth-buildings was DONE … completely ready for tourists to enter … Paved pathways completed, bathrooms installed, INAH plaques in place describing every major feature … and even the trash cans were in place for the tourists to dispose of their paleta-wrappers …
Yet, due to supposed “budget restrictions”, the completed “Chichen Viejo” remained isolated, far down a closed pathe to the public, due to “Insufficient pesos to pay for guards to control the turistas.”
Fortunately, NOW, with AMLO’s increasing INAH’s regional budget in Yucatan, they FINALLY OPENED Chichen Viejo … after the 6 yr. “pause”. …. Sadly, because both Peter and Sid have died in the meantime, neither of Yucatan’s grand old men of Archeology got to see it opened to the public.
Details:
Yes, lots of gringos mistakenly think of “Chichen Viejo” as the complex of buildings with El Observatorio, a small ball court, several finished temples, a small pyramid that’s still a pile of rubble, along another plaza & building with glyphs describing some past Lord who held a big Fire Ceremony … yet those gringos misunderstand.
Instead, the real “Chichen Viejo” is a different ~older~ walled complex of blgs with a Templo de Falos (Phallus-es – Phalli), a low, distinctive Turtle altar, a labyrinth building … and a nice distinctive-for Chichen Itza archway entrance (shown above) and remnants of a sac bé running from the main plaza of Chichen Itza over to the “Chichen Viejo” complex. Yet despite it’s completion in 2017, the real Chichen Viejo complex languished – ready to open – unused – for at least 6 intervening years.
Here’ a little of what has been waiting 6 yrs for us to see:
For geographical context, “Chichen Viejo” is the area south of the main archaeological zone. It includes the Initial Series Group, which is Sid Hollandeer (‘Calman’) and I inspected Dr. Schmid, plus 100’s of other currently un-renovated – as yet un-recovered structures.
In addition to the “Chichen Viejo” complex described here, Chichen Viejo also includes the Temple of the Three Lintels, Temple of the Four Lintels and evidence of hundreds more structures, including several compounds like the Initial Series Group.
Since Chichen began accepting tourists many years ago, a few select visitors have been taken to Chichen Viejo, including our good friend Evan Albright, who went on a horseback tour of Chichen Viejo in 2006, though tourists were not allowed into the building complexes – so personal stories abound about the real “Chichen Viejo”. For technical context, INAH began working in earnest in 1998 on the Initial Series Group, which is when the Chichen Viejo areas was closed to tourists.
Yet … It’s now open … welcoming us !
Going back to the fotos, in the foto (above) of the arch, note that there was once a sac bé (white road in the Mayan language) that connects the ceremonial complex of Chichén Itzá with the area of Chichén Viejo. Also note that “Atlantes” (see anthropomorphic figures below), “jealously guard the secrets of Chichen Viejo“** complex, that include a platform in the shape of a turtle and the Palace of the Phalli.
“Although in other places in the Yucatan Peninsula there are more than 100 phallic figures, Chichén Viejo is the only one that has a palace dedicated to the male member, because the pre-Hispanic inhabitants believed that this is how the earth was fertilized,”
**as explained by José Antonio Keb, custodian for INAH, in the archaeological zone of Chichén Itzá.
NOW … as of last Saturday INAH finally opened it – in a ceremony presided over by AMLO … who gets the credit, meanwhile almost all of the current English language “press” reports give few details, and literally no acknowledgement of the people who actually did the work this past 3 decades.
INAH’s official list of restorations at Chichen Viejo includes:
El Templo de la Serie Inicial, La estructura de los Estucos, el Templo de las Columnas Atlantes, El Palacio de los Falos, la Casa de los Caracoles (including a nice labyrinth inside), el Templo de los Búhos, una Muralla, la Galería de los Monos, y la Plataforma de la Tortuga.
Here’s a detailed map of the Chichen Viejo complex of buildings that was just opened last Saturday (Sept 2, 2023):
Historical Context & Sidelights:
Edward Thompson named the area Chichen Viejo when he “discovered” it around 1900 CE. He thought it was older, “more Maya” than the main archaeological zone though he was wrong on that point. Despite that, the “Chichen Viejo” name stuck.
Having said that, it is more than possible that CULTURA is calling the Initial Series Group “Chichen Viejo” because “Initial Series Group/Grupo de la Serie Inicial” doesn’t roll off the tongue. Having noted those points, readers might start to realize that there’s a bit of confusion in various internet reports over what “Chichen Viejo” is, due to all the various usages of the term “Chichen Viejo”.
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Plataforma de La Tortuga
Foto Credit: Giovanni Agostino Frasetto
For historical context, the Palace of Stuccos proves that the Chichen Viejo complex was completed during the “Lowland” Yucatec Maya’s Late Classic Period (600 CE – 800 CE). For regional context of that time, Chichen Viejo traded with the cities of T’ho (Merida – not quite yet with it’s 5 big pyramids), Cobá, Dzibilchaltun, an earlier version of Uxmal (as today’s Uxmal buildings sit on top of those older Late Classic Period buildings) …
The night watchman over Chichen Viejo offers his own personal fun insights, saying:
“This Palace of the Phalluses, and other constructions in the area, keep secrets of the Mayans and their sacred cult of fertilization and nature.“
“It is a place out of the ordinary, it transports you to another dimension due to the beauty of its architecture and the way in which the buildings are linked with the trees,” say Keb, who has worked as a “custodian” guard for INAH for the last 23 years.
“You can’t even imagine all the astral movements I’ve seen,”
Templo de Stuccos:
Foto Credit: Giovanni Agostino Frasetto
Chichen Viejo also includes the Casa de los Caracoles and the Temple of the Owls. The Temple of the Owls has distinctive sculptures of owls with outstretched wings alternating with human figures carrying long beaks and instruments of self-sacrifice. As you walk through the newly opened area, you’ll find the Gallery of the Monkeys, with superb reliefs and 16 carved panels, six of which represent great lords, Mayan priests or other members of the elite.
Templo de Buhos (Temple of the Owls).
The interior of this small temple includes painted panels and Chaac masks, as well as a large owl figure that has been restored.
“The decorative elements of the region’s fauna, such as monkeys, owls, snails and turtles, confirm that the environment was also sacred to that pre-Hispanic culture,”
Efe José Antonio Keb, an heir to the Mayan culture, proudly asserts..
Temple of the Dancing Jaguars:
Is THIS your next excursion ??
Finally, additional details have just been reported about the Chichen Viejo site being opened only “gradually” … For people wanting to visit Chichen Viejo, please realize that the current plan is to allow pre-approved, pre-arranged groups of 60 individuals – ” to maintain better control” …
The 60 person groups appear to likely be arranged through online applications(?) ..
We’ll report more details as we get them.
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Readers can get a small sense of one side (one aspect) of one of the grand old men of Maya Archeology from this video – See a younger Dr. Schmid at 3 minutes 10 seconds in with some Maya carved reliefs that most turistas never see … Then around th 4 minute mark, Dr. Schmid, shows his gentle humble nature as he acts as the fine proffesional he was … a younger professional Dr. Schmid, that stands in contrast with the clever, funny, sometimes devious-yet-delightful old Peter Schmid.
and yes, Peter had the most twinky-eyes, peering out through bushy-brows, as he leaned-in with pure devilment in his sights … as he LOVED intellectual duals with sharp collegues … as he’d reveal flashes of the still-bright steel of his delightful intellect … as he’d pose questions that he knew the answers-to … laying traps for the unsuspecting … especially if those unsuspecting opponents were even a bit arrogant. 🤣
So, I am so grateful & appreciative for a wonderful day of camaraderie with Sid & Peter … jousting … toasting … and reminiscing about old-times in the ’70’s, ’80’s, 90’s, and naughties …
Here’s a video of my friend, Peter.
Cheers,
Dr. Steven M. Fry
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